Maintaining this goblet shape lets light in and encourages better air movement. With this in mind, remove larger branches from the middle, or side branches that are growing into the middle. with a clear trunk and outward-facing main branches surrounding an open centre. Ideally, a free-standing tree should look from a distance like a wine glass – i.e. The first step is to remove any crossing branches that will potentially rub together weak spindly growth and any damaged or diseased growth. Next, think about the overall structure. I keep mine in a spray bottle for easy application. Clean your tools with rubbing alcohol, or a general sterilant like Jeyes fluid. Pruning tools (secateurs and saws) should be sharp and clean, as this will reduce the risk of spr eading disease and help wounds seal over faster. Thinning out the canopy also allows more light to reach the remaining branches, ensuring the fruit ripens well. Pruning not only keeps your trees productive, but prevents fungal infections by allowing air to circulate, whilst removing infected growth to prevent spread. Pruning any time between November and early March, when the trees are leafless, allows you to see the branch structure clearly.
Winter is the best time to prune your apples and pears. It has wonderful illustrations on fruit pruning, and as they say, ‘a picture paints a thousand words’ – it’s a great resource for those who get in a tangle over this topic. I wouldn’t be without it, and have since bought it for the keen gardeners amongst my family and friends.
One of the best presents I have ever received was the RHS Pruning and Training manual by Christopher Brickell and David Joyce. RHS Horticultural Advisor Deirdre McShane shares her top tips, plus how to keep on top of codling moth to avoid maggoty apples! Winter pruning of apples and pears can be a daunting task when you’re faced with a tangle of branches.
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